Estella to Santo Domingo de la Calzado

Day 3 – Estella to Logrono

After a buffet breakfast, where we ate far too much of course, we set out on a tour of the pretty town of Estella, on the banks of the Ega River. Nancy told us more about Romanesque architecture and the history of the region, especially events and people of the 11th century. We visited the San Miguel Church (not to be confused with the San Miguel brewery, although we have been consuming plenty of that and other beverages) and learned more about Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

We then drove to our starting point for the day’s walk, which turned out to be a wine and water fountain to provide pilgrims with free wine (& water)at Irache Bodega! I was so overwhelmed, I forgot to take a photo! We then commenced our walk for the day. Once again it was much hotter than we anticipated and the walk was quite hilly, with little shade. We walked through farmland, seeing olive groves and grapevines. We arrived in Villamayor de Monjardin to another one of Jose’s amazing picnics, which we enjoyed overlooking the river and village.

We then drove to Sansol for a short walk to the neighbouring village of Torres del Rio to look at another octagonal 12th century church. Nancy explained the carvings around the arched doorway and for the first time I noticed how gruesome some of the images used by the Catholic Church are. I can imagine how terrifying the results of sinning would have appeared to 12th century peasants and pilgrims. We then walked 3 kms to Nuestra Señora Chapel, looking out over the Basque mountains, before driving to our lodging for the night in a converted Monastery in Logrono.

After a quick shower and change of clothes, we drove to Rioja Winery for a tasting and tour of the winery. Expecting something similar to a wine tasting in the Hunter Valley, we were surprised to be met by an charming and entertaining guide, Jesus, who had all of us, especially the women, enthralled. We started with a tasting of a very nice white wine before following Jesus into the winery. As well as tanks and barrels of wine, there were some stunning stained glass windows and spectacular art and sculptures. We then returned to the tasting room to try three reds and an ice wine. John, the official tour geologist, was also asked to interpret the soil sample results recently conducted in some of the vineyards. Naturally, most of us bought at least one bottle.

We returned to our hotel and some of us walked down into the bar area to try pinxtos and local wines for dinner. We walked 15.3km for the day.

 

Day 4 – Logrono to Santo Domingo de la Calzado
John and I had a surprising start to day 4. We were first to breakfast and as we sat down another woman came in & I realised she was Australian by her accent and Kathmandu shirt. I asked her
“Where are you from?”
She replied “Queensland”.
I asked “Where?”
She answered “Mackay”
I said “We’re from Grasstree Beach”
She asked “Do you know Jo?”
“Yes, she’s my neighbour, we walk together every day & have drinks every Sunday afternoon!!”
Such a coincidence!
After breakfast, we visited the fresh food market – onions as big as John’s head – and the Logorno cathedral. The cathedral was very impressive, with a massive gold alter piece. It’s easy to imagine the awe that pilgrims felt when they entered cathedrals such as these. It’s also easy to understand why people became disenchanted with the immense wealth of the church and the reformation started.

After breakfast we drove to Najeera to visit the Sta Maria Real Monastery, built on the site of a miracle, said to have occurred when the son of the King of Navarra followed his hunting eagle and a dove, it’s intended prey, into a cave where he found the eagle, the unmolested dove and the Virgin Mary. Of course, this miracle was a sign that a monastery should be built on the site. The Monastery extends into the cave itself, and the tombs of the Navarran Kings were built as close to the spot the Virgin Mary appeared, to be as close to God as possible. John, now designated as authority on anything to do with rocks, examined the cliff face to identify bands of gypsum.

We then drove to Azofra to commence walking to Ciruena. We walked through rolling farmlands, with grapevines used for red wines like the ones we tasted the previous night. Although the weather was cooler, I felt like I struggled more with the walk and I was very happy to arrive at our picnic site. Jose had prepared a gorgeous salad, accompanied by local specialties and wonderful bread we could drizzle olive over. I hadn’t realised how much I like bread with olive oil before Jose’s picnics!

After lunch, we walked to Santo Domingo de la Calzado and our hotel. This walk was much easier. After checking in and changing, Nancy took us on a tour of the cathedral and told us the story of St Domingo, the saint for the unjustly accused. His most famous miracle occurred when the son of German pilgrims was hung after being framed for stealing the silver from the hostel the family stayed in. The distraught parents prayed for him all the way to Santiago. When they returned they expected to see his decaying body still hanging, but to their surprise they found he was still alive (don’t question how he survived without food and water while hanging by his neck). His overjoyed parents rushed to tell the judge who told them it could not be so and that if it was the roasted chickens he was eating would grow feathers and run away. This is precisely what they did! And in fact, those very chooks, still alive after 800 years, are on display in the cathedral!

We had dinner at our hotel, a converted Monastery that retained much of the original architecture. We walked 15.6km for the day.

Over the last two days I have settled into the swing of he Camino. I have had the chance to get to know the other members of our group as well as talk to other pilgrims about their journeys. While there is a part of me that would like to be walking like they are, I am enjoying learning about the historical and political context of the Camino. To be continued…..